The Lab – Chorus’ second collection of softly tailored women’s wear brings to life a set of characters from an imagined world. The Doctor, Patient, Factory worker and Shopkeeper ensembles are refinements of costumes designed by Chorus for a live performance staged by artist Lucy McRae. Continuing their desire to explore the design process from varied angles, Chorus participated in this performance as both actors & creators and have transformed the experience into the collection.
The original costumes embracing McRae’s possible future were created without a single stitch. Medical tape held the pieces together echoing the Laboratory aesthetic. In their refined state, taped seams have been made functional by the use of bonded ribbon over a series of clean diagonal lines. The original colour palette of soft fleshy pinks, cool sterile grey and white has had an injection of red to bring the sanguine references to the fore. The gold element mirroring the world of luxury perfume production explored in the performance has been used both in subtle hardware details and pushed to the point of jest in pieces that continue the mix of garment typologies seen in the first Chorus collection. Apron styles cover both the intended utilitarian purpose in transparent plastic and are reinterpreted into refined open backed dresses and tops. The collection focuses on tactile wool crepe and jersey mixed with silk organza with a graph paper like check print – again referencing the Laboratory – water repellant sateen has been used for Lab coat styles. Jersey and stretch fabrications exist as panelling or entire garments building upon Chorus’ desire for functionality and comfort masked in luxury.